LATVIA

Culture and history

Latvia is among the few countries left in the world where natural ecosystems, largely untouched by man, still thrive in over 50 percent of its territory. The country that we today call Latvia has long attracted foreigners – at first, invaders of all kinds, and later travellers and adventure seekers. For example, since the 1830s the region surrounding the city of Sigulda has been called the “Switzerland of Vidzeme” by German travellers who compared the sandstone banks of Sigulda's Gauja valley with those of the Elba river in Saxony . If the territory of Latvia were magically transported to the heart of Western Europe , and the “blank spot” filled with its natural colors, what would be the result? We would see a territory resembling a nature preserve or national park, surrounded by the highly urbanized landscape of modern Europe . Few countries remain in the world whose territories are dominated by ecosystems largely untouched by man. Where forests, marshes, lakes and rivers have developed over the centuries at their own pace, with minimal human interference. Nowhere else in Europe will you find such a large population of the black stork and the lesser spotted eagle. They represent 10% and 12% respectively, of the world population of these rare species.

Within 64,589 sq.km of territory, there are hundreds of wolves and lynxes, 4,000 otters and 50,000 beavers. Latvian forests are located in a mixed forest zone consisting of northern coniferous and southern deciduous trees. You will find a pine forest next to a linden tree forest, and throughout a diverse spectrum of other species. Because of the unique climate and terrain nearly one quarter of Latvia 's forests grow on wetlands. Many plant and animal species, which can only survive in constant habitats, have found a home here. It is the existence of the wetlands forests that insures a high standard of biological diversity. About 10% of Latvia 's forests meet the criteria for a natural forest. Latvia 's forests also harbour a rich supply of berries, wild strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and loganberries. The berry-picking season lasts from late June until late September. It is also the time for gathering mushrooms. The most popular mushrooms are the edible boletus, orange cap boletus, chanterelles and rusulla. If in the 1930s Latvia was known for its butter and bacon exports, then today it is known for its export of chanterelles. Apart from clearly marked private lands, the wealth of Latvia 's forests, berries, mushrooms and hazelnuts is accessible to anyone.

The sea and coastal zone, which stretches 494 kilometres along the Baltic Sea and Gulf of Riga , is an important part of the Latvian landscape. Sand dunes of up to 32 metres, sandy beaches, rivers and their estuaries, forests, marshes and lakes form a continuous ecosystem that has developed as a result of interaction of the land and sea.

At present 6.8 % of Latvian natural territories are protected by law. There are five nature reserves , two national parks , and 240 protected areas (nature parks, protected landscape areas, restricted areas and biosphere reserves).

Riga

Since centuries Riga has been the central and strategically most significant part of the East coast Baltic Sea countries. This area always has somehow functioned as a bridge uniting the East and the West. The stronger neighbouring countries always have coveted this town. That is the reason for wars, sieges, and blockades being a part and parcel of the history of this city. First settlements of Latvian ancestors along the Baltic coast are dated from 2500 BC. Seriously about settlements in territory of today's Riga we can talk only by the time when this area was important ancient pitch of amber export. Then this place was important as a strategically convenient location in the estuary of the Daugava big waterway, amidst the ancient route “from Vikings to Greeks” (also called the Amber Way ). However the origins of Riga must be traced back to the 10th and 11th centuries, when the first settlements of local inhabitants (the Livs, the Couronians and the Semigallians) appeared here. In the second half of the 12th century the vicinity of Riga was a trading place where goods were exchanged among locals and tradesmen coming from the West and East.

Nowadays nearly one third of Latvia 's population lives in the capital city Riga . Riga , the oldest still existing medieval city, was founded in 1201. The value of Riga 's cultural and historical significance has been recognised by the fact that its old city centre has been included in UNESCO's list of the world's most important cultural and natural sites. Riga is the capital of the Republic of Latvia and the geographical centre of the Baltic States Also Riga is the largest city in the Baltic States . Overall city's territory now covers approximately 307 square km, but population totalls more than 833,000. The city is situated on both banks of the river Daugava near the Gulf of Riga . Daugava River separates city in two parts: on the right bank of the river one can see eldest part of the city – Vecriga (Old Riga), which is surrounded by the ring of boulevards, but the left bank is occupied by other part of the city called Pardaugava. Three vehicular transport bridges and one Railway Bridge connect both banks of Daugava River . Riga also is a green-city including 700 parks, gardens and squares in territory more than 2 square km and parkways and woodlands more than 52 sq. km.

 In Riga there are 6 professional theatres, Latvia National Opera, Latvia Philharmonic Orchestra, several large concert halls and many art galleries what represent cultural life in Riga . There are more than 40 different museums in Riga, most popular of which being Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation, Latvian Museum of Nature, Ethnographic Open-Air Museum of Latvia. An important role in the cultural life of Riga is assigned to amateur groups and artists. Today there are 303 amateur performing and arts groups, 84 choirs, 43 folk dance groups, 5 brass bands, 30 arts and crafts studios, 14 amateur drama groups, 14 instrumental ensembles, 5 photography and film studios with a total number of 8,500 participants. Riga also is proud of its well preserved authentic folklore and craftsmanship traditions as well as the rapidly developing avant-garde and modern art. Every year Riga hosts large international cultural festivals, the largest is the National Song and Folk dance festival that is held every 4 years and assembles about 30,000 participants and attracts tourists from around the world.

Old Riga with its labyrinth of cobble stoned streets is a live open-air museum containing more than 150 architectural monuments. In December 1997 the Historic Centre of Riga was included in the prestigious World Heritage List. The World Heritage Committee decided to inscribe this property on the basis of criteria, considering that Historic Centre of Riga, while retaining its medieval and later urban fabric relatively intact, is of outstanding universal value by virtue of the quality and quantity of its Art Nouveau/Jugenstill architecture, which is unparalleled anywhere in the world, and its 19th century architecture in wood. 2001 was 800 years anniversary of Riga City and it was filled with events that not only tided up the city for the festivities, renewed and enriched the cultural and historic environment.       

Throughout history, Latvia has always attracted attention to its strategic location at the center of major European trade routes. Long ago, the Scandinavian Vikings sailed up the same river Daugava that today runs through Riga to get to Constantinople . Arabs followed the same route north to get Baltic sea amber. Many Vikings stayed and established settlements in the western part of today's Latvia . Some were traders, some came to fight. Latvia's own seafarers, often refered to as the Vikings from the western coastland of Courland, were so feared in Denmark that Danish churchgoers would pray to God each Sunday to protect them from “pestilence and the dreaded Cours.”

The German presence has been strong in today's Latvia since Bishop Albert founded the city of Riga in 1201. Until the beginning of the 20 century German crusaders, bishops and barons had a major influence on the development of the land areas that later became modern Latvia . And German was spoken by most people in Riga as one of its three primary languages, along with Latvian and Russian. Castles, mansions and magnificent manor houses built by the Germans still stand today and offer a tantalizing glimpse into Latvia 's rich and varied past. Riga became one of the most important members of the Hanseatic League that controlled trade on the bustling Baltic Sea in the 14 and 15 centuries. Their proud sailing traditions have survived to this day. The same goes for the distinctive Hanseatic identity of Latvian cities and towns that belonged to the league: Riga , Cesis, Valmiera, Straupe, Limbazi, Koknese, Ventspils and Kuldiga.

The Period in the 17 and 18 centuries when northern Latvia was a part of the Swedish Kingdom is still refereed to by many Latvians as “the good old Swedish time”. It was good for Sweden as well since Riga was the Kingdom's largest city, bigger than Stockholm on the other side of the Baltic Sea . It was at this time that Latvian school children began to receive a general education and peasants acquired an idea of freedom. You can still see places in Latvia today where Swedish King Karl XII stayed while visiting Riga . The riding boot he left behind is on display in a Riga museum!

Russia had always longed for access to the sea and thus control over the land that makes up today's Latvia . When Sweden lost Northern Latvia to Russia in 1721, and the Duchy of Courland replaced its Polish ties with Russian control in 1795, Russia finally gained its “Window to the West”. After a period of Latvian independence from 1918-1940 Latvia was occupied and annexed by the Soviet Union . Soviet rule lasted until Latvia regained its freedom in 1991, leaving behind such peculiar Soviet architectural landmarks as the ‘wedding cake' Academy of Science building in Riga . Although English is becoming commonplace, Russian is still understood in most parts of Latvia .

Seasonal traditions

Many ancient traditions that have disappeared in Europe are alive and well in Latvia . The annual cycles arrange themselves in lifetimes; lifetimes twine with destinies and in their polyphony one can feel the course of a people before eternity. The traditional Latvian worldview develops in dialogue with nature, God (deities), and other people. Dialogue is necessary to attune, but additionally, harmonious living is one of our ancestors' most fundamental insights – to be in harmony with nature, God, other people, and oneself.

In its revolution around the sun, the earth has, in the course of one year's time, four primary points, connected with the changing lengths of day and night. They are marked with the beginning and ending of certain farm work. This rhythm of nature determines when and how the four most important Latvian holidays are celebrated.

Latvia 's seasonal traditions originated in the woodlands and countryside and reflect the values and lifestyle of people who worked and loved the land. Nevertheless, over the centuries these traditions have established themselves in cities as well and have adapted to the character of city life. As a result, Latvia 's ancient seasonal traditions not only remain popular today; they have become an integral part of contemporary Latvian society.

Easter

Lieldienas , “Great Days” – these are designations used in the folk songs for the spring equinox. According to folk tradition Easter has arrived when the day has become longer than the night for the first time that year.

On Easter morning people arose before the rising of the sun, and to obtain health and beauty, they hurried to wash their faces in a spring or a stream running east. This was followed by one of the most important Easter activities – awaiting the sunrise exactly when it appears on the equinox morning. In Liv villages the morning began with the calling and awakening of birds so they might protect the people from evil and sickness.

Those who had risen first, awoke those who were still sleeping and switched them with steamed birch branches. In this way a special force that encouraged fertility and endowed people with health and success was transferred from the branches. This ritual is connected with archaic concepts about the staff of life and its fertility enhancing power.

The spring equinox (March 21) is the time when farmers are hurried by endless labors and must keep up with the rapid awakening of nature and the rhythm of work. But the Latvian preserves a certain independence from this haste: for instance, one of the most important Easter rituals is hanging of the swing and swinging. But when swinging at Easter, one must not stop the swing; it must stop on its own. Only if the swinging is gentle, will the flax field finish its blooming without being beaten down by rain or wind. According to archaic beliefs, swinging is connected with fertility, and it must be done, so the livestock will do well, as well as the flax, and one will be spared bites from mosquitoes and gadflies. The first to be swung were usually the master and mistress, after that the rest took their turns. In return for swinging them, the girls paid the boys eggs, pies, or even handmade mittens and socks.

In the past, eggs for different peoples were a symbol of life, and also in Latvian spring equinox traditions they were given a special place. Waiting Easter, eggs were coloured with onionskins, rye shoots, chamomile, or hay cuttings. This is not such an old custom, and in our day very popular. Eggs are given for swinging, and eggs are knocked together to see which one survives cracking, as according to belief, the one whose eggshell was strongest, will live longer. During Easter eggs are rolled and eaten in great quantities, because in addition to round flatbreads and sprouted grains, they are the primary Easter foods.

Midsummer

Latvia 's Midsummer night celebration is called Jani in Latvian, and it is the one night of the year that you must never sleep. Most activities are outside and center around a huge bonfire. The summer solstice (June 22) marks a divide in both nature and the work of the farmer. In nature it is the longest day and the shortest night when in Latvia the short summer has reached its flowering height. For the farmer ploughing, sowing, and weeding work is done before Midsummer, but after Midsummer begins the period when crops are harvested, which starts out with hay mowing.

All of the herbs and flowers collected at Midsummer ( Jani ) are known as Jani -herbs, and the day before Midsummer is often known as Herb Day. During this time the collected herbs and roots are attributed special healing power, which is useful for healing both people and livestock. Midsummer herbs are plaited in wreaths and included in bouquets. Women and girls make wreaths for all celebrants to wear. Women traditionally wear flower wreaths while those worn by men are made of oak leaves or twigs. Rooms, byres, corrals, wells, mills, and other places important in the farmer's life are decorated with Midsummer herbs. The livestock and fences are adorned with wreaths. Birch, oak, and rowan boughs are used to decorate gates and rooms.

One of the most important Midsummer herbs in Latvia is the mythical blooming fern, which, according to legend, opens its magic golden flower only on Midsummer Eve. Midsummer Eve is a magic night when one may meet Mother Laima (Fortune) herself and Dievinš walking, see money drying, and if very lucky – find the blooming fern flower.

For the Midsummer celebration, the mistress makes cheese, but the master brews beer. All the celebrants are treated with them. With the cheese wheel and the beer mug come the blessings of nature and God, but the songs, dances, and rituals of the Midsummer “children” in turn bring blessings to everything and everyone to whom songs are addressed. The highest point of the year's turning has been reached, and each celebrant participates in the wedding of the Sky Father and the Earth Mother.

The most colorful Midsummer traditions are the ligotne -songs – Midsummer folk songs with a characteristic refrain - ligo, ligo . Several thousand songs sing about Saule (Sun), the sky son Janis , the hosts of each farmstead – “mother” and “father” of Midsummer, and the Janis children – the celebrants who go from farm to farm singing and bringing blessings with their songs, picking Jani -herbs along the road. Every phase of the celebration, each situation and its characteristics are sung about.

Midsummer celebrations can not be imagined without Jani -fires, which are lit before sunset on Herb evening and are kept going until sunrise on Jani -morn. The Jani -fire is made at the top of a hill. At the top of a pole is placed a barrel of tar – pundeles or pudeles , a wheel soaked in tar and wrapped in straw, or specially prepared straw lamps or torches. The Jani -fire purifies, promotes health and fertility, and drives away evil.

Fall celebration

The ending of summer and the turning of the sun towards winter marks the autumn equinox (September 23). By the celebration of Mikeli all crops must be stored and the gardens harvested, as after Mikeli the gates are open for winter.

There is a special place for rituals connected with the reaping of grain at the end of summer and the beginning of fall. With the beginning of reaping the Rudenaji are celebrated, but at the conclusion of the reaping work, the most important assignment for the reapers was the driving or catching of Jumis .

The word “Jumis” has two meanings: two ears on one stalk are called J umis , or two fruits or vegetables that have grown together. In addition, Jumis in Latvian beliefs is a field spirit and embodiment of fertility.

The oldest way of catching Jumis combined expressions of sowing and reaping work. That is, upon the completion of reaping, a Jumis -clump was left uncut, the ears were tied in a knot, bent to the ground, and weighed down with a stone or surrounded with soil. The grain was rubbed out of the ears in the clump and scattered in the prepared soil. The spirit and strength of the harvest was directed back into the earth, so that it could appear again in the new sowing.

Later the last sheaf is plaited into a wreath or braid, taken home with great honor, and given to the mistress, who saves it in a place of honor until the next sowing. In the spring the grain rubbed from the wreath is sown, or the entire wreath is placed under a rock in the field.

As a special Jumis -food, a particular Jumis- loaf is baked. It is larger than the usual bread loaf, and it is a great honor to eat this.

Sowing, threshing, and the catching of Jumis is connected with group labor – talkas . Neighbors gathered together to do work, and after that they had a feast with special responsorial singing, dancing, and fertility rituals with erotic symbolism. One of these rituals was the struggle over the stebere (an imitation of the phallus from a carrot and a pair of onions), that the boys tried to take away from the girls.

When the harvest is completed the festival of Apjumibas is celebrated. Following this , or in some regions after Mikeli , the quiet shadow period begins. At this time the shadows – spirits of the dead - visit the farmsteads to look over the life of the household and to bring blessings for the course of future life and work. Special feasts are prepared in the threshing barns, saunas, or the living room.

Christmas

The winter solstice (December 22) was celebrated when the night was longest and the day shortest, when the intensity of field work was lowest, but people gathered for evening bees to do textile and other handiwork, to spin fairytales and other stories, to guess riddles, sing, and dance. In the Christian tradition Christmas is the birth of God's son, but in traditional Latvian culture it is the rebirth of the Sun maiden.

For Christmas rooms are decorated with three-dimensional straw or reed ornaments that are vernacularly known as lukturi, puzuri, krigi, putni , and so on. Evergreen branches, junipers, colored rags, wood shavings and other natural materials are also used in the decorations.

The best known Christmas tradition is mumming. In some regions these kekatas are called budeli, kujenieki, preili, kurciemi, cigani , or kaladnieki. The mumming period for Latvians is from Martinmas to Shrovetide, but the most intensive mumming activities occur around Christmas. The mummers are costumed and in different masks. The most common traditional masks are bears, horses, cranes, and wolfs, goats, haystacks, tall women, small men, death, fortune-tellers, and the living corpses. Led by a “father”, the mummers travel from homestead to homestead or from village to village. The mummers bring a home blessing, encourage fertility, and frighten away any evil spirits.

Another characteristic Christmas tradition is dragging the Yule log. This is explained as the symbolic collecting and burning of last year's problems and misfortunes. The Yule log was either dragged by the people of one farmstead or several neighbours together. This was accompanied by songs, singing games, and various sounding instruments. If people from different farmsteads came together, then it was burned in the last farmstead.

An integral part of Christmas was a generous banquet, whose most characteristic food included a pig's head, which was boiled together with barley mashed with a pestle. Other traditional foods were peas, beans and barley sausage, which because of their round, curved appearance were seen as symbols of the sun or the year.

In our time Latvians bake gingerbread cookies and decorate a fir tree with lighted candles. The decoration of the Christmas tree is a tradition that was borrowed from Baltic manor lords several hundred years ago.

Materials and photos are provided by the Latvian Institute, and Mara Mellena

Compiled by D.Rudaka, Embassy of Latvia in China